We were supposed to be in Paris for an additional day but apparently both my boyfriend and I are horrible with time management and estimating how long it takes to get places (and leave the house) that we missed our first flight and had to fly out the next day. So, that was pretty cool. We missed dinner plans at Gentle Gourmet with our friends, who told us it was like average NYC vegan food and nothing to write home about. Though I have another friend who previously had a delicious dinner there so, your mileage may vary.
We are grateful that our friends were there the week before us (and we had a little overlap while they were still there) -- so we not only got to see them but also take all of their recommendations.
Le Potager du Marais - I could probably start and end on the appetizer: french onion soup with bread and slabs of "cheese" on top. I mean. I literally had to stop typing to fondly reflect on that soup. We had one delicious and one just-okay entree followed by two chocolate-based desserts (they'd just run out of the creme brulee!) The hazelnut flour chocolate cake came out warm and was totally delicious. You need a reservation here, mostly likely. We managed to squeeze in with seating for 2 but just barely and at first we were told no. So, may the force be with you. If I was in Paris again, I'd eat here every single night.
Vegan Folie's - You may know that, like most humans, I love dessert. So I made my boyfriend rush to Vegan Folie's before it closed on our way to Montemarte to see the sunset from the Sacre Coeur steps. The only thing they had left was cheesecake and a brownie, and I (usually) love cheesecake, so we got two slices - berry and I think hazelnut. I don't know if it was an off day or what but the slices reminded me of what health food stores in the '90s passed off as dessert. Like, a hunk of tofu in the blender with some sweetener and toppings. You can see from the photo that it looks more like raw tofu than a creamy cheesecake. I feel super American right now but I'd gladly take a freezer-case Daiya cheesecake over these. I rarely turn down dessert but I didn't even finish eating either slice. (From two different cheesecakes...so it's less likely it was a glitch in one cake.) We have friends who liked the cheesecake they got there the week earlier and there are plenty of happy vegans over at Happy Cow. However, I wish I had actually just purchased the Vego bar that my boyfriend jokingly suggested I buy when I couldn't decide which cheesecake flavors to get. Hopefully your experience there is different than mine!
Hank's Vegan Burger - Based on many recommendations, we made it to Hank's Vegan Burger. I liked everything we ordered - their fries, their burgers and the delicious toppings. I'm not usually a veggie burger fan because they so often run the risk of either being a hockey puck or a bland, falling apart grain-and-veggie patty but these were solid options that I'd be happy to have regularly! I am hungry just thinking about them. We ended up eating at a park (hence the chess table) because it was wicked hot that day and their upstairs seating was like a charming, collegial oven.
Un Monde Vegan - Vegan grocery shop in Paris! Since we had an Airbnb and were taking a train between Paris and Amsterdam, our plan was to get some breakfast stuff, a "picnic lunch" for the train and a picnic dinner by the canal where everyone hangs out one night. They had an entire wall and then some devoted to their vegan cheeses so I choose according to a Veg Society UK cheese tasting scorecard that I pulled up on my phone. (Go, Internet!) I liked all of the cheeses we got - No Muh, Sojami (the best!), Jay & Joy. The lunchmeat was fine. The Faux Gras reminded me of liverwurst - I think? - but I liked it! Especially paired with the No Muh classic on bread. (That mushroom tartine on the right ended up being pretty much my only sustenance when I got stuck at an airport hotel with no food options, overnight, awaiting my flight the next morning. That and ginger cookies. Yep, I ate ginger cookies with mushroom tartine with my travel spork - and I was happy to even have that.)
The chocolates I tried were all fine but the Vego was the clear winner. I think I'm losing my taste for the really sweet "milk" chocolate. Some of these are still in my apartment waiting to be opened, actually. (The Bonvita Rice Milk ones are gone already though - all 3 of them.)
Honorable mention - we were able to get plain soy yogurt at the regular local grocery! In the United States of America, we do not have this option. (We barely had it when WholeSoy was still in business but it definitely wasn't at my local grocery.) The Sojasun was a nice thing to be able to have! (Now we've started making our own soy yogurt in our Instant Pot Duo so hopefully I'll become less bitter about this over time.)
Brasserie Lola - Thanks to our friends, we also got to try this all-vegan brasserie. I got a Monte Cristo and it was totally suitable. This isn't fine dining but it is all vegan and it's totally serviceable! The folks working there were super nice and there is outdoor seating available.
That's it for Paris! We lost a day due to our tardiness so we didn't get to try as much as we would have liked but we did cover some ground.